Zara recurre al trabajo esclavo en Argentina

Buenos Aires clausura un taller clandestino en el que se confeccionaba ropa para la empresa de Amancio Ortega. La fundación La Alameda revela que acaba de encontrar otro recinto ilegal en el que trabajan inmigrantes explotados para Inditex.

A mediados de marzo fue clausurado en Buenos Aires un taller clandestino en el que se confeccionaba ropa para Zara. Era el primero que se hallaba en Argentina con prendas de la marca española. Hace unos días, la fundación La Alameda presentó una denuncia penal contra la firma de Amancio Ortega y promovió un escrache frente a una de las tiendas que la empresa posee en el centro porteño. Ahora el presidente de esta organización, Gustavo Vera, ha adelantado a este diario que acaban de encontrar otro recinto ilegal en el que trabajan inmigrantes explotados y en donde han vuelto a descubrir indumentaria de la filial de Inditex.

El titular de esta ONG, dedicada a combatir el trabajo esclavo y la trata de personas, no puede dar más detalles de este segundo taller hasta que el lugar sea inspeccionado, pero según desveló, ‘es muy parecido al primero’ que denunciaron y ‘no tiene nada que envidiarle’.

Junto a Zara han sido denunciadas otras dos empresas argentinas, Ayres y Cara y Cruz, después de que La Alameda informara a la fiscalía anti trata UFASE de la ubicación exacta de tres talleres informales en los barrios de Mataderos, de Floresta y de Liniers (todos en oeste de la capital) que comprometían a las marcas de ropa. Aportaron como prueba algunas imágenes de los locales filmadas durante los allanamientos de la Agencia Gubernamental de Control (AGC), organismo del Gobierno autónomo de la ciudad de Buenos Aires.

En estas pequeñas fábricas de costura trabajaban y vivían explotados niños y adultos ‘bajo el sistema conocido como cama caliente’ en jornadas laborales de ’13 horas’ que se extendían desde ‘las 07.00 horas de la mañana’ hasta ‘las 22.00 ó 23.00, de lunes a viernes y sábados [hasta el] mediodía’, de acuerdo a la denuncia presentada por La Alameda. El escrito hacía énfasis en las ‘condiciones de salubridad e higiene (…) absolutamente deficientes, a lo cual se debe sumar la carencia de una adecuada alimentación tanto para adultos como para los menores de edad que residen en el lugar’.

En el taller de Liniers, donde se encontraron las prendas de Zara, había ‘cables eléctricos expuestos e instalación combustible debido a que el techo es de madera’. Allí vivían ‘seis personas extranjeras (…), una de las cuales no poseía ni siquiera residencia precaria’.

Inditex ha rechazado que ese taller pertenezca a alguno de los 60 proveedores que tiene en Argentina, y dice haber realizado hasta 300 auditorías en los dos últimos años certificando que se ‘cumplían con los estándares de conducta que nosotros establecemos’. Gustavo Vera se ríe ante esta aseveración. ‘Estamos escuchando pacientemente todo lo que dice el señor Ortega porque está claro que el sistema de producción de Zara en Argentina es a través de talleres esclavos’, explica. ‘Afirmo con total certeza que Zara usa más talleres clandestinos de los dos que le hemos encontrado’.

Pero el problema del trabajo esclavo trasciende a la firma española. Según reconoce el presidente de La Alameda, el 78% de la industria textil en Argentina utiliza talleres clandestinos. La ONG ha denunciado en total a 109 marcas nacionales e internacionales que han recurrido al trabajo esclavo para confeccionar sus prendas en el país. ‘El Estado tendría que presentarse en los locales de Zara y exigir que le entregue la lista de suministros. Es muy fácil darse cuenta de cuánto produce y cuáles son sus proveedores para asegurarse de que sus trabajadores estén en blanco’, cuenta Vera. ‘He aquí una diferencia enorme entre Brasil y Argentina. Cuando a Zara le encontraron [en 2011] talleres clandestinos en San Pablo, el Parlamento la citó, le pusieron una multa de 1,8 millones de dólares y la amenazaron con expulsarla del país. Acá es todo lo contrario’.

La Alameda estima que más de 300.000 personas en Argentina están sometidas a trabajo esclavo dentro del rubro textil, el sector que más cantidad de trabajadores explota y que, además, va siempre en aumento.

Desde su creación en 2007, la fundación ha interpuesto más de 150 denuncias contra marcas, empresas, funcionarios y personalidades públicas. Algunos de los casos presentados a la Justicia involucraron al magistrado de la Corte Suprema Eugenio Zaffaroni, al que el organismo acusó de tener seis prostíbulos en un departamento; a Juliana Awada, esposa del gobernador de la ciudad de Buenos Aires Mauricio Macri, por subcontratar cinco talleres clandestinos; e incluso al ex secretario privado de la presidenta Cristina Fernández, Fabián Gutierrez, ‘por tener un depósito donde contrabandeaba autos con franquicia diplomática y a su vez regentear una marca que utilizaba trabajo esclavo’, en palabras de Gustavo Vera.

La ONG denuncia que ni el Gobierno nacional de Cristina Fernández ni el de Macri tienen una política activa contra la esclavitud laboral. ‘En una época se hizo’ recuerda su presidente. ‘En 2007, con Jorge Telerman [predecesor de Macri], se exigió a muchas marcas que informaran de qué proveedores producían sus prendas, y a partir de ahí se pudo saber que 35 marcas importantes usaban trabajo esclavo. Eso se ha dejado de hacer’.

Otro ejemplo es la reforma a la Ley de Trata de 2008, sancionada en diciembre de 2012. Esta normativa todavía no incluye ‘lo más importante que cualquier país serio tiene’, según Vera: la incautación de los bienes de la empresa y su reutilización social a través de cooperativas. ‘Si no seguís la ruta del dinero, a la mafia no le va a importar nada el entorno jurídico que se establezca’, indica.

El Instituto Nacional de Tecnología Industrial (INTI) lanzó en 2007 el programa estatal Compromiso Social Compartido mediante el que se invitaba a las marcas a dejarse auditar en toda su cadena de valor para certificar que estaban libres de trabajo esclavo. Unas 200 empresas se interesaron en el proyecto. ¿Cuántas finalmente se auditaron? Sólo una, la marca Ombú. El resto desistieron a lo largo del camino.

Otro convenio del INTI convocó a todos los ministerios y a los organismos provinciales y municipales para que se comprometieran a contratar a empresas textiles que estuvieran previamente certificadas. Ninguna institución ha firmado hasta ahora el acuerdo, salvo el ministerio de Defensa, que desde entonces ha perdido el 75% de sus proveedores. A riesgo de todo el Ejército se quedara sin uniforme, el otro 25% ha recibido una prórroga de 6 meses.

En la última década han sido rescatadas cientos de víctimas y se ha conseguido la condena de algún responsable ante los tribunales. Pero más allá de estos logros, el presidente de La Alameda asegura que lo que prevalece es la complicidad política, policial y judicial por medio de coimas y de sobornos. ‘Estamos frente a un proceso en Argentina de acumulación mafiosa de capital’, sentencia Vera. ‘Se está conformando un capitalismo local con un proceso de acumulación en base a lo que dé lugar. Y a lo que da lugar es a trabajo esclavo, trata, narcotráfico y lavado de dinero. Los negocios mafiosos atraviesan transversalmente el aparato del Estado sin respetar partidos sin religión’.

‘De alguna manera, el sistema siempre encuentra vueltas para hacer tiempo’, lamenta el titular de La Alameda. ‘Si hoy robas una vaca en Argentina, te dan 12 años de prisión. Si  robas una persona, te dan 8, según el Código Penal. Y eso que lo reformaron, porque antes te daban 6 años. La vaca siempre tuvo 12’.

Nada de esto justifica a Zara, que desde España ya ha dicho que le gustaría apoyar a esta organización en su lucha contra el trabajo esclavo. La Alameda no ha recibido todavía ninguna propuesta: ‘Si la tuviéramos, no la aceptaríamos’, sostiene Vera. ‘Y en ese caso, lo vamos a revelar públicamente. No tenemos relación con empresas que están denunciadas por explotación’.

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