Algodón con conciencia ambiental

Organic Cotton Colours, con sede y telares en Barcelona y Portugal, hace hilo de forma artesanal con precios justos para los agricultores

 

Cuenta Santi Mallorquí que cuando entró en el negocio textil que es hoy Organic Cotton Colours no tenía “ni idea”. Fue hace 10 años. Percibía que el mundo estaba viviendo un momento de cambio para producir de forma más responsable. Su modelo de venta de algodón orgánico le ha hecho facturar 450.000 euros en 2019 con beneficios y tiene como meta alcanzar los tres millones en cinco años. “Nunca llegaremos a todo el mercado, no es la intención. Nuestro espacio es ser alguien dentro de la moda sostenible”.

 

https://elpais.com/economia/2020/01/07/actualidad/1578414427_844333.html

Jon Kareaga: «La industria de la moda puede empoderar Bangladesh pero lo está destruyendo»

El zumaiarra Jon Kareaga protagoniza una sentada de cinco días frente a Zara para denunciar que «el consumo masivo es poco sostenible e inviable»

Jon Kareaga tiene 21 años y pese a su juventud ya acumula en su currículo varias experiencias al frente del activismo medio ambiental, desde la coordinación del movimiento Fridays For Future en Gipuzkoa hasta el diseño de una marca de ropa, Bask Brand, «confeccionada en Bangladesh pero de forma sostenible». Los próximos cinco días protagonizará una sentada, mañana, tarde y noche, frente a la tienda Zara en pleno centro de San Sebastián.

La conciencia medioambiental ya le venía de serie. Se propuso viajar a China, Bangladesh e India para hacer un documental, para el cual consiguió financiación de la Diputación, y mostrar al mundo «cómo la industria de la moda, que tiene la capacidad para empoderar estos países, los destruye». Vio con sus propios ojos un río teñido de color naranja. También conoció a un niño que trabajaba ocho horas al día «por menos de dos dólares», y esto, unido a situaciones «que jamás creí que llegaría a ver», le ha hecho volcarse aún más en visibilizar una problemática que precisa, a su juicio, de «un cambio en todo el sistema de consumo, desde los gobiernos, a las empresas privadas y el individuo». Continuar leyendo «Jon Kareaga: «La industria de la moda puede empoderar Bangladesh pero lo está destruyendo»»

Forced Labour Tainted Cotton: from Turkmenistan via Turkey

5 April 2019

Does your business source cotton products from Turkey? Or maybe you have been buying clothes with ‘Made in Turkey’ tag? I have bad news for you: you may be inadvertently supporting a massive scale system of forced labour.

You can be forgiven for not being aware of it, because Turkmenistan – which we’re talking about here – very rarely, if ever, hits the news headlines. But with over 300 million dollars’ worth of cotton and textile exported to Turkey every year, it uses Turkey as the main gateway for its cotton products to the global supply chains.

Anti-Slavery International has released a new report bringing those the strong links between Turkey and Turkmenistan to light.

Turkmenistan’s cotton crimes

Every year during the cotton harvest season, the Turkmen government sends thousands of citizens into the cotton fields against their will. Doctors, dentists, teachers, students and military personnel are some of the people who are forced to abandon their regular jobs in order to toil under hazardous conditions in the fields for days on end.

This system of forced labour, a legacy of past soviet practices, is built on threat of punishment and intimidation. Workers refusing to pick cotton face the risk of having salary deductions, losing their jobs, or other punishment that is part of everyday life in this one of the world’s most repressive regimes.

“If you refuse to go away cotton picking or have a good reason not to be away from home for 10 days, your boss will just say, ‘You Know where the door is’.”
– A worker at the Maryagyzsuv water supply company sent to pick cotton during the harvest season, 2018.

Cotton picking is an arduous work. Conditions in the fields are very poor and people have only limited access to fresh drinking water. Those workers assigned to remote areas have to stay overnight with no option but to stay in squalid and unsanitary conditions.

“It was dark and empty and had bare earth instead of a floor with a few tatty felt mats laid out. […] Our group of cotton pickers had to get by on their own food for two weeks. […] There was no shower at all and no toilet for probably five kilometres.”
– A worker at Dashoguz vegetable oil mill sent to pick cotton during the harvest season, 2018.

Risks of Turkmen forced labour cotton in global supply chains

Being the 11th largest cotton producer in the world, not only does the country hold an important position on the global market for raw cotton, but it also has significant cotton processing facilities covering the whole textile production cycle. Turkmenistan’s apparel and textile exports pose a significant risk of forced labour tainting global supply chains and present a challenge to brands’ due diligence.

Turkey and Turkmenistan have special political, economic and business relationships, which leads to a higher presence of Turkmen cotton within Turkey. Through Turkey’s investment in Turkmenistan’s textile industry, Turkish suppliers are playing an important role in upholding forced labour practices. Once in Turkey, textile products containing Turkmen cotton find their way through global markets and end up being sold in high street shops across the world.

Anti-Slavery has documented cases of Turkish enterprises that operate in Turkmenistan, some with huge production capacities. Calik Holding, for example, is a large Turkish holding company with activities in the garment and textile industry, which owns production plants located in Turkmenistan and claims to sell their products to well-known international brands.

What can brands do?

Due to the nature of the cotton production system in Turkmenistan, which is based around state-sponsored forced labour, we urge brands to stop sourcing cotton from Turkmenistan and to undertake the following steps.

  1. Stop sourcing cotton from Turkmenistan. We invite brands to publicly oppose the use of Turkmen cotton in their supply chains, for example by signing the Turkmen Cotton Pledge, to demonstrate to the Turkmen government that human rights violations in cotton production are unacceptable.
  2. Raise awareness. Inform consumers about the labour abuses that might affect the products they wear and use every day.
  3. Engage Turkish suppliers. We don’t want brands to boycott Turkish companies, as it may inadvertently affect those that don’t source Turkmen cotton, and some might even not be aware of the issue. Instead, we want brands to collaborate with their Turkish suppliers and put the issue of Turkmen cotton on their agenda.
  4. Join in on putting pressure on the Government of Turkmenistan. We are calling on brands to use their power to get involved and to raise their concerns to the Turkmen government.
people picking cotton

Does your business need help?

Anti-Slavery can help to identify risks of slavery in your supply chains and support you to addres them

Find out how

What can consumers do?

Let the brands know that accepting the risks of forced labour practices – even if little known – in their supply chains is unacceptable. Let them know that you as their customer expect more from them to ensure that the products you buy are slavery free. The easiest way to do it is to send the below tweet asking a brand to sign up to the Turkmen Cotton Pledge and implement its commitments.

Together, we can end Turkmen Cotton Crimes for good.

Tweet to your favourite brand:

#Forcedlabour is rife in Turkmenistan and affects global cotton supply chains. @[brand handle] please sign up to the Turkmen Cotton Pledge to ensure it doesn’t taint the products I buy from you. https://www.sourcingnetwork.org/turkmen-cotton-pledge/

Publican el primer “Manual de Moda Sostenible” en español

María Lourdes Delgado Luque aporta un amplio contenido sobre el sistema de la moda, así como entrevistas e información sobre «profetas y pioneros» de la sostenibilidad.

“Era ya una necesidad en todos los ámbitos”, explica la investigadora y doctora en Comunicación María Lourdes Delgado Luque al hablar de por qué publica el “Manual de Moda Sostenible”, escrito en colaboración con Miguel Ángel Gardetti. “Aquel estaba más orientado al estudio de la persona y este habla del sistema en su conjunto”, dice. Continuar leyendo «Publican el primer “Manual de Moda Sostenible” en español»

No chains. Alameda

NO CHAINS, una marca argentina-tailandesa que lucha contra el trabajo esclavo

Los procesos justos en la cadena de producción de textiles e indumentaria, cada día se matizan en diferentes voces y acciones que le apuestan a vender y a comprar prendas limpias, llenas de sonrisas, color y buenas historias. La ropa teñida de sangre, esclavitud, explotación infantil e indiferencia, es reemplazada cada vez más por productores y consumidores conscientes, que ven en el diseño una herramienta artística para compilar la creatividad y la esencia de un lugar en un solo hilo.

Continuar leyendo «No chains. Alameda»

Cómo puedo saber si mi ropa está hecha con trabajo esclavo

Un estudiante de Publicidad, Ignasi Eiriz, ha puesto en marcha un ‘crowdfunding’ para desarrollar la primera App de moda sostenible

El derrumbamiento del edificio textil Rana Plana de Bangladés hizo que nos fijáramos en la etiqueta de nuestra ropa y nos cuestionáramos el significado real de términos como low cost o made in. El colapso en 2013 de este bloque de ocho plantas en el que se confeccionaban muchas de las prendas que tenemos en el armario provocó la muerte de 1134 personas, cerca de 2500 heridos y agitó los pilares de la industria de la moda. Casi cinco años después, siguen surgiendo iniciativas para abrirnos los ojos. Continuar leyendo «Cómo puedo saber si mi ropa está hecha con trabajo esclavo»