Un estudiante de Publicidad, Ignasi Eiriz, ha puesto en marcha un ‘crowdfunding’ para desarrollar la primera App de moda sostenible
El derrumbamiento del edificio textil Rana Plana de Bangladés hizo que nos fijáramos en la etiqueta de nuestra ropa y nos cuestionáramos el significado real de términos como low cost o made in. El colapso en 2013 de este bloque de ocho plantas en el que se confeccionaban muchas de las prendas que tenemos en el armario provocó la muerte de 1134 personas, cerca de 2500 heridos y agitó los pilares de la industria de la moda. Casi cinco años después, siguen surgiendo iniciativas para abrirnos los ojos.
A raíz de la catástrofe, el director Andrew Morgan presentó en 2015 True Cost, el documental que enseñaba las entrañas del fashion business y la situación precaria que lo sostiene, desde los campos de algodón hasta el aura de fantasía que rodea el mundo del lujo. En España, el catalán Albert Sales elaboró Guía para vestir sin trabajo esclavo en donde ponía en entredicho las condiciones laborales de los trabajadores del sector. «Estas páginas no son una «lista blanca» de tiendas donde ir de compras con la conciencia tranquila, son un análisis de la situación de los derechos laborales en la industria global de la confección», apuntaba el editor.
Ignasi Eiriz también se leyó el libro y está intentando financiar a través de Verkami la primera App española de moda sostenible, Ethical Time. «Tomé la decisión de que no quería fomentar el trabajo esclavo. Hice una investigación y empecé a comprar ropa y calzado sostenible», explica este estudiante catalán de Publicidad y Relaciones Públicas y el más pequeño de su familia, lo que significa que siempre ha tenido un armario bastante ético, heredado de sus tres hermanos. Durante años ha ido anotando en un mapa de Google sus tiendas favoritas y al ver el interés de sus amigos por el tema, decidió hacer algo más. «Me di cuenta de que muchas personas no estaban de acuerdo con la explotación laboral y querían comprar ropa que les asegurase unas condiciones de trabajo dignas. Por otro lado, vi que también había muchas tiendas y marcas que ofrecían ese tipo de ropa».
Ethical Time pretende crear una red de consumidores éticos, a través de una aplicación y una web, para poner en contacto a personas interesadas en el comercio justo con firmas que producen bajo esta filosofía. «Lo que más me ha sorprendido ha sido la cantidad de iniciativas que existen y la poca cohesión que hay dentro del sector, teniendo en cuenta que son personas con un objetivo común. Me llama la atención que no sean capaces en ponerse de acuerdo para crear un frente común y que sea una alternativa real».
El proyecto también puede mejorar la imagen que tenemos en torno a este tipo de productos. «Preguntamos a muchas personas y los adjetivos que más salen son «caro» y «hippie». Pensamos que son prendas que hace la gente en su casa y, como han pasado mucho trabajo, nos da la sensación de que va a ser caro. Una camiseta no va a costar 4 euros porque eso no puede ser viable, pero a partir de un margen puedes encontrar cosas sostenibles. De hecho, una de marca es más cara».
«Lo que más me ha sorprendido ha sido la cantidad de iniciativas sostenibles que existen y la poca cohesión que hay dentro del sector, teniendo en cuenta que son personas con un objetivo común»
La App permitirá elegir al usuario entre unos parámetros de sostenibilidad que van desde la elección de materias primas a los tintes naturales o la protección social. «Hay que ser realista y no le podemos exigir lo mismo a una marca totalmente sostenible desde el principio que a otra que no lo es. Lo que siempre decimos y el principal requisito que no se puede quitar es el del trabajo digno», explica Eiriz. Una condición que no cumplirían muchas empresas, incluso las que en los últimos años han lanzado líneas de tejidos reciclados y ecológicos. «Una marca como Inditex no podrá entrar porque la empresa tiene que suponer el 70% de las prendas sostenibles. Han creado una línea sostenible en cuanto al tema orgánico, pero el modelo de negocio no lo es. Solo quieren vender más y en grandes cantidades». De momento, el proyecto ya ha recaudado 14.500 € -el objetivo es de 20.000 € a falta de 16 días para cerrarse- y cuenta con el apoyo de la Universidad Pompeu Fabra, el directorio de moda sostenible español Slow Fashion Nest o la Asociación Justicia y Paz de Barcelona.
Ethical Time será gratuita tanto para usuarios como para todas las marcas que quieren entrar, siempre que cumplan tres requisitos: trabajo digno, producción local (en el caso de producir fuera de España deberá demostrar mediante certificados que es sostenible) y ser una empresa española o con una tienda en España.
Ignasi Eiriz también es consciente de que su proyecto, que hasta ahora se sostiene gracias a la asociación sin ánimo de lucro que fundó con el mismo nombre, no podrá vivir únicamente del voluntariado. «A los consumidores les ofreceremos también suscribirse por 20 euros anuales, y así tendrán descuentos en tiendas o podrán participar en concursos, etc. Por otra parte, a las tiendas les preguntamos libremente si quieren aportar algún descuento o producto, y siempre nos suelen ofrecer algo. De este modo podríamos pagar a unos trabajadores fijos». De cumplirse los plazos previstos, la aplicación se lanzará en el mes de abril de 2018, para conmemorar la catástrofe de Bangladés.
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