¿Y qué pasa con aquellos que hacen nuestra ropa?

Con una industria textil que emplea a millones de personas, Bangladés es uno de los países que más sufre por el corte de pedidos de grandes firmas de moda, afectadas por el cierre de tiendas en el mundo. Un rastreador llamado Covid-19 Tracker actualiza la lista de marcas que pagan o no a sus proveedores

En Dacca, Bangladés, el 5 de abril de 2020 será recordado como el día en que estallaron el caos y la desesperación. El momento en que las consecuencias sociales y económicas de la pandemia de covid-19 se hicieron evidentes, con toda su claridad y violencia. Ese día, miles de trabajadores del sector textil llegaron a la capital, muchos de ellos a pie desde las zonas rurales, para cobrar el sueldo de marzo y volver al trabajo 10 días después del cierre de las fábricas impuesto por el Gobierno para contener el contagio. Sin embargo, el bloqueo se había prorrogado, y “a la mayoría de los trabajadores se les dijo que estaban despedidos o que la fábrica abriría cuando fuera posible”, cuenta Khadiza Akter, vicepresidente del sindicato Somramito Garments Sramik. Las imágenes de los trabajadores que volvían a casa aterrados, una marea humana que invadió el muelle de Mawa asaltando los transbordadores, dieron la vuelta al mundo.

Con una industria textil que supone un 80% de las exportaciones, con alrededor de 4.000 fábricas que emplean a cuatro millones de personas, Bangladés es uno de los países que más sufre por la suspensión de pedidos de las principales marcas de ropa, que están a su vez contra las cuerdas por el cierre de las tiendas en todo el mundo. Según los últimos datos (del 20 de abril), de las 1.144 fábricas censadas por la Asociación de Productores y Exportadores de Ropa de Bangladés, en el país se habían cancelado o suspendido pedidos por valor de 3.170 millones de dólares, con un total de 980 millones de prendas y casi dos millones y medio de trabajadores locales despedidos, no remunerados o suspendidos del servicio. En todo Asia se extiende la angustia por este efecto colateral del virus en el sector textil, que emplea de 60 a 75 millones de trabajadores y que, incluso antes de la pandemia, tenía unas condiciones de trabajo precarias.

En Sri Lanka, Anton Marcus, subsecretario del sindicato Free Trade Zones & General Services Employees, lo explica así: “Los empresarios aprovechan la situación para despedir y reducir las prestaciones y los salarios de los empleados, haciéndolos responsables de la cancelación o la disminución de los pedidos de sus clientes. Los que tienen contrato serán los más afectados”.

En Camboya, la Asociación de Fabricantes de Textiles Gmac ya ha informado al Gobierno de que no puede cubrir más del 40% de los salarios. Los trabajadores recibirán solo 70 dólares al mes, en lugar de los 120 prometidos, pagados tanto por el Gobierno como por los empresarios. En India, la organización de Mujeres con Empleo Informal (Wiego) recuerda que el 90% de los empleados en la industria de la confección trabaja en negro, pero el Gobierno está haciendo poco para evitar que caigan en la miseria más absoluta. En Pakistán, la Federación de Trabajadores ha comunicado que, desde marzo y solo en la provincia de Punjab, aproximadamente medio millón de empleados textiles han sido despedidos, y otro millón en todo el país está destinado a perder su empleo. En Vietnam se calcula una pérdida para el sector cercana a los 500 millones de dólares, lo que provocará una caída en el crecimiento de la economía nacional de entre el 4,9% y el 7%. Y Tailandia, Myanmar, Malasia también pasan por serias dificultades.

Lo que está por venir

¿Cómo hemos llegado a esto? Los activistas de la campaña Ropa Limpia apuntan que la crisis de la industria textil como consecuencia de la covid-19 se ha desarrollado en tres etapas. La primera, cuando China, agotada por el virus, detuvo las exportaciones de materias primas necesarias para la industria de la moda. La segunda, cuando el virus se extendió por Europa y Estados Unidos: “Las empresas de moda cancelaron los pedidos que ya estaban en marcha sin pagarlos. Las fábricas proveedoras, que operan con márgenes reducidos, porque los precios son demasiado bajos, se han visto obligadas a cerrar y mandar a los trabajadores a casa sin paga”. Por último, la tercera oleada estalló cuando el virus llegó a los países productores: cierres de plantas para evitar contagios, o lo contrario, apertura a ultranza con grandes riesgos para la salud de los trabajadores.

Dos informes del Worker Rights Consortium (WRC) y del Center for Global Workers’ Rights de la Universidad de Pensilvania investigan aún más a fondo las raíces de la catástrofe, humana y económica, que se está consumando en las cadenas de suministro. Los autores de la investigación escriben que las marcas y los distribuidores están descargando sobre los proveedores las consecuencias de la caída de la demanda. “Las empresas de ropa pagan solo a la entrega, mientras que las fábricas se hacen cargo de los costes generales y de mano de obra, y tienen el poder de decidir no pagar los pedidos, aunque eso suponga, de hecho, una violación contractual”, señalan.

Por lo tanto, las fábricas se quedan sin liquidez para pagar los salarios, y en el futuro, cuando probablemente ya no lleguen más pedidos, se espera lo peor. Además, “en la inmensa mayoría de los países productores de ropa, los mecanismos de protección social, como el seguro de salud, las prestaciones por desempleo o los fondos de garantía en caso de insolvencia, no existen o son insuficientes”, añaden los analistas de la campaña Ropa limpia. “Esto se debe, en parte, a décadas de presión a la baja sobre los precios pagados por las empresas que hacen el encargo. Años de incapacidad para tomar medidas significativas sobre los salarios han dejado a los trabajadores sin ahorros y sin protección”, añaden.

Según el Centro para los Derechos Globales de los Trabajadores, cuando se cancelaron los pedidos, el 72,1% de los compradores se negó a pagar las materias primas ya compradas al proveedor, mientras que el 91,3% no cubrió el coste de producción. Por lo tanto, escriben los investigadores, “el 58% de las fábricas entrevistadas informan de que tienen que detener la mayoría, si no todas, las operaciones”.

Human Rights Watch también realizó un análisis sobre el asunto, entrevistando a expertos del sector y representantes de las principales marcas de moda: en varios países en vías de desarrollo, los productores confirman que muy pocas marcas asumen riesgos corporativos al realizar el pedido.

¿Pero cuáles son las marcas que mejor o peor se están comportando? El Consorcio de Derechos de los Trabajadores (WRC, por sus siglas en inglés) ha creado, en asociación con el Centro de Trabajadores Globales de Penn State Derechos (CGWR), el Covid-19 Brand Tracker. El rastreador proporciona una lista actualizada regularmente de qué firmas y minoristas están pagando a sus proveedores por los pedidos que están en producción o los ya completados y también las que se niegan a hacerlo.

Las principales marcas que se comprometen a pagar toda la producción o los pedidos completados son (hasta el 20 de abril): Adidas, H&M, Inditex (dueña de Zara), Kiabi, la polaca LPP, Marks & Spencer, Nike, PVH (que posee Tommy Hilfiger y Calvin Klein), Target USA, Uniqlo y VF Corporation. Los que no se habían comprometido públicamente hasta esa fecha a pagar eran: Arcadia, ASOS, Bestseller, C&A, EWM/Peacocks, Gap, JCPenney, Mothercar, Next, Tesco, Under Ampour, Urban Outfitters, Walmart/Asda y Primark.

Esta última marca anunció el 7 de abril que creará un fondo para ayudar a pagar los salarios de los millones de trabajadores textiles afectados por la decisión corporativa de cancelar los pedidos. Con el cierre de sus tiendas en todo el mundo, el gigante de la moda irlandesa de bajo costo está perdiendo ganancias de más de 800 millones de dólares al mes, aseguran sus portavoces.

“Algunos aseguran que pagarán ahora, pero con un descuento. Otros dicen que pagarán, pero en 120 días. Aún otros dicen que solo cubrirán el componente de salarios del coste final del trabajador (o alrededor del 10 o 15% de los costes totales de producción, si incluimos el costo de la tela)”, indica Mark Anner, director del Centro para los Derechos Globales de los Trabajadores. Por lo tanto, las predicciones de Anner no son optimistas: “Si bien los compradores afrontan un enorme estrés económico, la situación de los proveedores y sus trabajadores es absolutamente desesperada”, admite. “La incapacidad de los principales compradores para pagar a los proveedores lo que deben, seguramente contribuirá a su fracaso, despidos masivos y la incapacidad de los trabajadores para cubrir sus gastos de vida más básicos, incluida la comida”.

A escala local, se ha visto algún comportamiento honrado. En el distrito de Gazipur, en Bangladés, los sindicatos que representan a 10.000 trabajadores en las fábricas de Hop Lun Ltd., la marca de Hong Kong que fabrica ropa interior y trajes de baño, han negociado las principales medidas: los trabajadores recibirán el sueldo de marzo completo y, cuando vuelvan al trabajo, tendrán una línea telefónica dedicada a problemas de salud relacionados con la covid-19. Es lo que dice la asociación estadounidense Solidarity Center, que añade que otras marcas locales, como Natural Denims Ltd. y 4 A Yarn Dyeing Ltd, han garantizado los salarios de marzo.

Y a finales de abril, en mayo o en junio, dependiendo de cuánto tiempo permanezcan cerradas las tiendas de moda en Europa y Estados Unidos, ¿qué pasará con quienes hacen nuestra ropa?

 

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