Moda sostenible, ¿en la cuerda floja?

La iniciativa más pionera globalmente para legislar a favor de un sector textil verdaderamente sostenible puede sucumbir a manos de la Comisión Europea, y bajo la influencia de los lobbies.

Han pasado ocho meses desde que el Parlamento Europeo aprobó instar a que la Comisión Europea legislara la industria textil para que esta respetara los derechos humanos y el medio ambiente sin que, hasta ahora, el órgano ejecutivo europeo haya empezado movimientos en esta dirección. “La Comisión se encuentra en un estado de parálisis consciente y premeditada, parece más preocupada en salvaguardar los desorbitados beneficios corporativos de un pequeño grupo de multinacionales sectoriales, que en poner en práctica los valores fundamentales de la Unión”, lamenta Lola Sánchez Caldentey, eurodiputada de Podemos.

El pasado 26 de abril, Sánchez Caldentey presentó una iniciativa emblemática ante el Parlamento Europeo instando a la Comisión a legislar para que las firmas de moda respeten los derechos humanos y el medio ambiente. Fue durante la celebración de la campaña Fashion Revolution, que cada año recuerda el incidente más grave en la historia de la moda: el derrumbe del edificio Rana Plaza que provocó 2.000 heridos y acabó con la vida de 1.134 manufactureras de grandes marcas como El Corte Inglés, Primark, Carrefour, Mango, Benetton, entre otras.

En la pantalla de votación aparecieron 505 puntos en verde, de los votos a favor, una amplísima mayoría del 82,6%, con 49 votos en contra y 57 abstenciones.

“Sientes que puede ayudar a mejorar la vida de millones de personas en tantos lugares… –relataba, sobre el momento de la aprobación, la europarlamentaria–. Ese día vivimos sensaciones muy fuertes y una explosión de alegría al ver materializado el resultado de meses de duro trabajo para afinar un texto satisfactorio para todos, sin renunciar a exigir una legislación vinculante. Lo contrario a lo que existe: buenas intenciones e iniciativas voluntarias bajo el marco de la Responsabilidad Social Corporativa que no han sido suficientes para acabar con las condiciones de esclavitud de unos 75 millones de trabajadores en este sector mundialmente”.

La iniciativa aprobaba sugería como medidas a aplicar la implantación de un sistema de diligencia sobre toda la cadena de distribución bajo las directrices de la Organización para la Cooperación y Desarrollo Económico (OCDE) parecido al existente para los minerales en zonas de conflicto, un sistema que asegure que los países exportadores de textiles con acceso al mercado europeo respeten las directrices fijadas para una producción sostenible, que los Estados miembro promuevan los derechos laborales en sus relaciones con los países socios, un sistema de etiquetado que haga visible el “impacto social de la producción de la ropa” y que las instituciones europeas sean ejemplo en sus contratos para compra de textiles.

Para redactar esta iniciativa que obligue a las grandes marcas, sus filiales, subsidiarias y subcontratas, el equipo de Sánchez Caldentey consultó a numerosas organizaciones civiles. Una de ellas, fue la campaña Ropa Limpia (Clean Clothes), que desde hace casi 30 años monitorea las condiciones laborales sectoriales reclamando mejoras. Eva Kreisler, su coordinadora estatal en España, también recuerda ese día: “Sentí una mezcla de alivio y alegría, por ser una propuesta de puro sentido común (no concebíamos que no fuese aprobada), y por el amplísimo apoyo del Parlamento, que envió un mensaje inequívoco a la Comisión de que hay que poner coto al business as usual y establecer normas vinculantes”, señala.

ESPERANZAS CONTENIDAS

El día previo a la votación, acompañando la presentación del informe en Bruselas, el equipo de Sánchez Caldentey invito a Paloma G. Lopez, fundadora de la tienda de moda sostenible madrileña The Circular Project, presidenta de la Asociación de Moda Sostenible de Madrid, que acudió con miembros de la campaña Fashion Revolution, de Stars for workers (de concienciación a los deportistas de élite) y del programa de radioCarne Cruda. Al finalizar la sesión hicieron del hemiciclo un market de moda sostenible de diseñadores españoles mientras concienciaron: “Los europarlamentarios estaban sorprendidos y encantados de que algo así sucediese allí, se mostraron muy receptivos”, rememora G. López.

Del día de la votación recuerda: “Ya de vuelta en la tienda, atendía a una clienta, y me mandaron un pantallazo con las votaciones, y un vídeo de Lola dando botes. Me eché a llorar, la clienta, una habitual, lo compartió conmigo con alegría y emoción. Fue un día histórico: la primera vez que una propuesta de ley, que nace desde España, gana con esa mayoría aplastante, además presentada por una mujer, y en el sector en el que trabajo ¡Lo tenía todo!”.

DE LA ALEGRÍA A LOS OBSTÁCULOS

Ante el claro mandato de la cámara (la única institución de la Unión Europea directamente elegida por los europeos por sufragio universal), la Comisión Europea debe de garantizar, a través de una legislación, procesos obligatorios de debida diligencia, estándares mínimos de derechos humanos, sostenibilidad, transparencia, trazabilidad, y acceso a remedio para las víctimas. Sin embargo, en los ocho meses trascurridos desde la aprobación no ha habido ninguna acción sobre el tema por parte de la Comisión.

Según relata la europarlamentaria el motivo de esta inacción es que la Comisión se acoge, al menos a nivel retórico, a argumentos de tempo político: “El estatus quo actual –un complejo marco de iniciativas voluntarias, algunas a nivel nacional, otras a nivel regional, otras centradas en los materiales– promovido por las grandes marcas para blanquear sus imágenes corporativas tras el colapso del Rana Plaza, que requiere de un mayor espacio temporal para evaluar su eficacia”, detalla.

También existe la posibilidad de que se “descafeíne” la normativa, como pasó con la de minerales de conflicto europea donde, tras llevar a cabo una consulta pública y una evaluación de impacto, la Comisión envió al Parlamento una propuesta de disposiciones voluntarias.

“En efecto, estamos convencidos de que una eventual propuesta legislativa de la Comisión Europea sería extremadamente débil y, casi con certeza, no recogería la principal demanda del parlamento: trascender del marco voluntario a uno vinculante y obligatorio para todas las empresas”, explica Sánchez Caldentey.

Y añade: “No obstante, que la Comisión emprendiera este proceso, por descafeinada que fuera la propuesta, sería toda una victoria. En ese caso, nos encargaríamos de enmendarla desde el Parlamento, como pasó con el reglamento de minerales de conflicto. Entonces, la cámara fue capaz de articular una sólida posición entorno a la obligatoriedad, dotando a las disposiciones propuestas por la Comisión del carácter vinculante, esa fue la clave entonces y lo será en el sector textil también. El Parlamento ya tiene una postura definitiva en esto. Sabemos que lo voluntario no funciona”, recalca.

Reconoce que ella y su equipo son plenamente conscientes de que el camino va a ser largo y complejo: “Las resistencias de un reducido grupo de actores privilegiados serán constantes. Quienes se están haciendo multimillonarios con este negocio, lógicamente pelearán para que nada cambie.”, confiesa.

Pero en el hipotético escenario de tener una propuesta legislativa sobre el sector textil, Sánchez Caldentey aclara: “La pelearemos para dotar a las pymes europeas de un tablero de juego para competir en igualdad de condiciones con las multinacionales. Y para proveer de condiciones y estándares dignos de derechos humanos, laborales y medioambientales a los millones de trabajadoras del sector más allá de nuestras fronteras.”, recalca.

PREOCUPACIÓN ANTE LA REBAJA DEL MANDATO

Las pymes y organizaciones civiles que trabajan a favor de un sector textil sostenible viven con preocupación la espera: “Es muy probable que rebaje el mandato” –reconoce Eva Kreisler–, ocurrió también con la ley francesa sobre el deber de vigilancia.

La corriente ideológica que sigue apostando por la validez de las medidas voluntarias, frente al obligado cumplimiento, tiene muchos adeptos y mucho poder”, asegura.

“Aunque la tragedia del Rana Plaza demostró, de nuevo, que ese sistema de auto-regulación es ineficaz y se cobra víctimas mortales, son muchos los interesados en perpetuar el statu quo y sólo promover cambios cosméticos”, señala Kreisler.

Según esta experta, hay que abordar las raíces de los problemas estructurales del sector, y a ello contribuye obligar a las empresas a ser transparentes sobre las condiciones de producción de su ropa: “Esta industria se fundamenta en la explotación de la pobreza y la elusión de responsabilidades”, alega Kreisler.

“Europa debe hacer honor a sus principios y responsabilidades. Y la Comisión debe promover sin demora iniciativas legislativas vinculantes que pongan fin a las promesas corporativas con mayor o menor grado de compromiso, cumplimiento y transparencia”, insiste la Coordinadora estatal de Ropa Limpia.

Paloma G. López también manifiesta su preocupación: “Presionarán a la Comisión para no salir mal parados. La ley supone renunciar a la impunidad y a los privilegios con los que operan los grandes emporios textiles y no lo van a consentir tan fácilmente, hay muchos intereses. Ahora se escudan en que lo hacen muy bien, que es la ley del otro lado del mundo la que está mal. Un cinismo salvaje porque, por una cuestión ética, no deberían negociar allí si no cumplen unos mínimos de derechos humanos”.

“La opinión pública, los consumidores y los que trabajamos a diario por un mundo mejor no podemos bajar la guardia, ni dejar de continuar presionando y respirándoles en la nuca”, indica G. López.

ESTRATEGIAS PARA LA DEFENSA DE UN SECTOR TEXTIL SOSTENIBLE

Ante este escenario de inmovilidad, Sánchez Caldentey propone “articular una base amplia y transversal de actores empresariales, institucionales y de la sociedad civil, tanto para la defensa de los derechos humanos en terceros países, como para la protección de las pymes europeas frente al dumping social y la competencia desleal de un grupo reducido, pero poderoso, de multinacionales. No pedimos tanto, sólo que nuestras empresas no exporten esclavitud por el mundo”.

Cada vez es más difícil ignorar las condiciones en las que se fabrica la moda, los consumidores tienen el poder de empujar a las empresas a cambiar sus prácticas productivas

“El papel de la sociedad civil es clave”, opina la europarlamentaria. “Cada vez es más difícil ignorar las condiciones en las que se fabrica la moda, los consumidores tienen el poder de empujar a las empresas a cambiar sus prácticas productivas, y también de presionar a las instituciones para que legislen. Las grandes empresas se preocupan cada vez más por la imagen que dan ante ellos”, explica.

“Pero los derechos humanos no deben supeditarse a esta preocupación por su imagen, sino que deben ser cumplidos por ley, por derecho, de forma obligatoria y vigilada por las administraciones”, puntualiza.

“La ciudadanía cada vez está mejor informada”, opina Eva Kreissler. “El mensaje va calando, debemos seguir denunciando, movilizándonos, e incidiendo donde nos dejen hablar. El sector empresarial alude a una hipotética desventaja competitiva de las empresas en el caso de adoptar unas medidas obligatorias, pero un marco europeo así establecería un mínimo común denominador para todos los países miembro, evitando una carrera de mínimos y la competencia desleal dentro de la UE”, indica.

“Además, beneficiaría a las compañías que ya disponen de procedimientos creíbles de prevención de riesgos de violación de los derechos humanos y, en su caso, ya reparan los abusos en sus cadenas de producción”, remarca la experta.

Y podría tener un alcance mayor del esperado: “Tras varias reuniones con las patronales del textil español y portugués, hemos encontrado muchas de las demandas y problemas de las pymes, en general, se solventarían con una legislación como la que propuesta”, comenta Sánchez Caldentey.

La europarlamentaria distingue entre las macroempresas transnacionales que producen fuera e importan a la UE, y aquellas que fabrican en territorio europeo, sobre todo pymes. Aproximadamente el 25% de la ropa consumida en Europa se produce en la Unión Europea, cada vez menos. La competencia desleal que sufren estas pymes hace que muchas tengan que cerrar. Y territorios, tradicionalmente textiles, están en una situación de preocupante decadencia, como en el levante español, en Portugal, Italia o Grecia”.

“Miles de puestos de trabajo dignos y productivos han desaparecido a favor de un modelo inhumano, medioambientalmente letal, y con grandes beneficios monetarios rápidos para unos pocos”, indica Sánchez Caldentey.

“No sólo conseguiríamos proteger un sector que ha tenido, y sigue teniendo, un peso importante en el empleo, en el PIB europeo, en la inversión en I+D+I de altísima calidad, sino que moldearíamos la globalización convirtiendo a la UE en lo que siempre ha proclamado ser: una exportadora de derechos humanos. Estamos deseando verlo algún día”, concluye.

https://www.elsaltodiario.com/industria-textil/moda-sostenible-en-la-cuerda-floja

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