La industria de la moda se enoja mucho en estos días. El exceso, la publicidad abiertamente sexual, los problemas humanitarios, el desperdicio, las demandas, la lista continúa.
Los gigantes de la industria han dedicado millones de dólares a campañas masivas de relaciones públicas, llegando incluso a lanzar “ colecciones conscientes “ y donar fondospara causas valiosas. Sin embargo, a pesar de estos esfuerzos, lo cierto es que la moda es una de las industrias más sucias del mundo. Esto es lo que no quieren que sepas:
1.) La industria de la moda está diseñada para hacerte sentir “fuera de moda” después de una semana.
Érase una vez, hubo dos temporadas de moda: primavera / verano y otoño / invierno.Avance rápido hasta 2014 y la industria de la moda está produciendo 52 “microestaciones” por año. Con las nuevas tendencias que salen cada semana, el objetivo de la moda rápida es que los consumidores compren la mayor cantidad posible de prendas de vestir lo más rápido posible.
Según Elizabeth Cline en su libro Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion , la mercancía de moda rápida tiene un precio muy inferior a la competencia, operando en un modelo de negocio de baja calidad / alto volumen.
Cline señala a la minorista española Zara por ser pionera en el concepto de la moda rápida con nuevas entregas a sus tiendas que llegan dos veces por semana. En el momento de escribir estas líneas, ella dice que H & M y Forever21 obtienen envíos diarios de nuevos estilos, mientras que Topshop presenta 400 estilos a la semana en su sitio web.
Con diseñadores que crean nuevos looks semanalmente, el calendario de moda para estas compañías está configurado para hacer que el cliente se sienta deliberadamente fuera de la tendencia después del primer uso.
2.) “Descuentos” no son realmente descuentos.
A los amantes de la moda más letales les encanta la idea de ir a una tienda outlet como TJ Maxx o Marshall’s y salir con etiquetas de diseñadores a una fracción del precio.Desafortunadamente, los artículos “excedentes” o no vendidos que creemos que estamos comprando a menudo nunca han visto una etiqueta de diseñador.
“A pesar de la creencia común, la ropa de outlet nunca entra a una tienda ‘normal’ y es más probable que se produzca en una fábrica completamente diferente que la ropa ‘normal’”, escribe Jay Hallstein en “ The Myth of the Maxxinista “.
La realidad es que el bróker de puntos de venta se ocupa de los diseñadores para que puedan poner etiquetas de diseñador en la ropa barata fabricada en sus propias fábricas de baja calidad.
Un artículo presentado en Jezebel confirma: “La plantilla está mejorando: las grandes marcas como J. Crew, Gap y Saks ‘Off 5th no están vendiendo productos con descuento o fuera de temporada en sus puntos de venta. Solo está comprando cardigans de calidad inferior. y pantalones estampados “.
3.) Hay plomo y productos químicos peligrosos en su ropa.
Según el Centro para la Salud Ambiental, Charlotte Russe, Wet Seal, Forever21 y otras cadenas populares de moda rápida siguen vendiendo carteras, cinturones y zapatos contaminados con plomo por encima de la cantidad legal, años después de firmar un acuerdo para limitar el uso de productos pesados. metales en sus productos.
Un artículo en The New York Times dice que el Centro para la Salud Ambiental se está enfocando en reducir el contenido de plomo en productos comercializados a mujeres jóvenes porque la acumulación de plomo en los huesos puede liberarse durante el embarazo, pudiendo dañar tanto a la madre como al feto.
La exposición al plomo también se ha relacionado con tasas más altas de infertilidad en las mujeres y un mayor riesgo de ataques cardíacos, accidentes cerebrovasculares y presión arterial alta. Muchos científicos están de acuerdo en que no existe un nivel “seguro” de exposición al plomo para nadie.
La contaminación con plomo se suma a los pesticidas, insecticidas, formaldehído, retardantes de llama y otros carcinógenos conocidos que residen en la ropa que usamos.
4.) La ropa está diseñada para desmoronarse.
Los gigantes de la moda rápida, como H & M, Zara y Forever21, están preocupados solo por el resultado final. Sus modelos comerciales dependen del deseo de los consumidores de usar ropa nueva, lo cual es instintivo si la ropa se deshace en un solo lavado.
“Una tienda como H & M produce cientos de millones de prendas al año”, dice la autora Elizabeth Cline en NPR . “Pusieron un pequeño margen en la ropa y obtuvieron ganancias vendiendo un mar de ropa”.
Entonces, por qué debería importarnos? Porque el estadounidense promedio arroja más de 68 libras de textiles por año. No estamos hablando de que la ropa sea donada a tiendas de caridad o vendida a tiendas de consignación, que 68 libras de ropa van directamente a los vertederos. Debido a que la mayoría de nuestras prendas hoy en día están hechas con fibras sintéticas a base de petróleo, llevará décadas que estas prendas se descompongan.
“Ves algunos productos y es solo basura. Es simplemente basura”, dice Simon Collins, decano de moda en Parsons The New School for Design, en NPR . “Y de alguna manera lo retiras y piensas, sí, vas a usarlo el sábado por la noche en tu fiesta, y luego literalmente se va a derrumbar”.
5.) Abalorios y lentejuelas son una indicación del trabajo infantil.
Las estimaciones de la industria sugieren que del 20 al 60 por ciento de la producción de prendas de vestir es cosida en el hogar por trabajadores informales, según la autora Lucy Siegle en su libro, Morir por: ¿La moda se está desgastando en el mundo?
Si bien hay máquinas que pueden aplicar lentejuelas y adornos que parecen trabajos manuales, son muy costosas y deben ser compradas por la fábrica de prendas de vestir.Según Siegle, es muy poco probable que una fábrica en el extranjero invierta en el equipo, especialmente si la ropa que se fabrica es para una etiqueta de moda rápida impulsada por el valor.
Llevando a cabo su propia investigación, Siegle descubrió que millones de trabajadores domésticos desesperados están escondidos en algunas de las regiones más pobres del mundo, “encorvados, bordando y bordando el contenido del vestuario global … en barrios marginales donde toda una familia puede vive en una habitación individual “.
A menudo, con la ayuda de sus hijos, los trabajadores a domicilio cose tan rápido como pueden y durante el tiempo que la luz del día permite embellecer y deslumbrar a la ropa que termina en nuestros armarios. Siegle continúa diciendo: “Viven de la mano, presididos por intermediarios, intermediarios tiránicos que entregan algunos de los salarios más bajos en la industria de la confección”.
Entonces, ¿cómo puedes convertirte en un consumidor más consciente ? Comienza por educarse, comprar locales, comprar menos, comprar usados y comprar de diseñadores independientes. Puedes comenzar uniéndote a un creciente movimiento de creadores de moda conscientes aquí .
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