Solo uno de la docena de datos más recurrentes en las informaciones sobre negocio textil y crisis climática tiene consenso científico. El resto es pura especulación, “intuiciones, enlaces perdidos, marketing y algo que alguien dijo en 2003”, denunciaba el pasado enero la periodista y ecoactivista estadounidense Alden Wicker. “Una organización publica una estadística, otras cuatro la recogen en sus informes y así sucesivamente, hasta que llega un punto en que nadie recuerda o tiene en cuenta la fuente original. De esta manera funcionan las cosas para la moda en el espacio de la sostenibilidad”, expone la fundadora de la plataforma digital EcoCult. Las implicaciones de semejante revelación no son pocas, empezando por el escaso significado de las acciones que puedan emprender marcas y diseñadores en sus intentos por reducir la huella medioambiental de su trabajo y terminando por la imposibilidad de establecer una auténtica regulación para el sector. Por no hablar de la imagen que proyectan los implicados cacareando datos sin contrastar, que oscilan en un baile de números según se acuda al Foro Económico Mundial, la Organización Internacional del Trabajo, la iniciativa Clean Clothes o las consultoras globales de turno. Resultado: intoxicados de desinformación a estas alturas de tamaña película de catástrofes.
“Como reportera, me apoyo en las investigaciones de los expertos analistas de agencias como McKinsey, Bain y Boston Consulting Group, e instituciones del calibre de Naciones Unidas y el Banco Mundial. Si no podemos confiar en ellos, ¿en quién entonces?”, replica Dana Thomas. La periodista y escritora estadounidense (Washington, 1964) no duda en cuestionar a Wicker, señalada por The New York Times como la primera voz en poner en tela de juicio ese lugar común que asegura que la del vestir es la segunda industria más contaminante del planeta. “Escribe ese mismo artículo cada año”, dice Thomas sobre Wicker. La primera, veterana cronista de los vaivenes de la moda y autora de los celebrados títulos Deluxe. How Luxury Lost Its Luster (2007) y Dioses y reyes. Ascenso y caída de John Galliano y Alexander McQueen (Superflua, 2015), tiene su versión de los dañinos acontecimientos. La expone en Fashionopolis. El precio de la moda rápida y el futuro de la ropa (Superflua, 2020), un manejable pero contundente volumen.
“Nunca ha habido prendas tan baratas y más accesibles como hoy, y las megacorporaciones nos han condicionado para creer que eso es normal. Y no lo es. Por eso escribí este libro. Para abrir los ojos de los consumidores y hacerles pensar sobre lo que acumulan en sus armarios”, concede desde su casa en Saint-Tropez, donde ha pasado el confinamiento de rigor, pero en absoluto ajena al vuelco productivo y de consumo que está viviendo la industria.
“La huella de carbono que dejan las semanas de la moda es abrumadora. Y todo para siete minutos de desfile. Ahora todo el mundo se queja de que hay demasiadas presentaciones y colecciones, aunque hacía tiempo que era preciso repensar el sistema. Quizá todo vuelva a tener algún sentido tras esta crisis”, razona. A seis meses vista de la publicación de Fashionopolis, sus postulados cobran aún más sentido y relevancia.
La pandemia interrumpió el curso de su edición —las versiones en tapa blanda solo lograron salir en Estados Unidos y el Reino Unido—, pero la autora ha aprovechado para expandir horizontes vía Instagram (@danathomasparis), donde no ha parado de mantener encuentros en directo con activistas textiles y creadores con conciencia crítica como Prabal Gurung, Maria Cornejo o Gabriela Hearst durante el confinamiento. “Hemos pasado unos meses sentados frente al ordenador y la televisión en pijama o chándal y es normal que cuando tenemos la oportunidad de volver a salir a la calle queramos vestirnos, lucir bien, pero no es necesario comprar nuevas prendas para ello. Las actuales condiciones de teletrabajo también van a jugar a favor a la hora de echar el freno”, apunta antes de meter el dedo en la llaga.
“Hay récords de despidos y gente sin empleo ahora mismo en todas partes, así que también hay menos dinero para gastar en aquello que se percibe innecesario, como la moda. Cuando tienes que pagar la hipoteca, la educación de tus hijos y no te queda para comer, comprar ropa nueva no resulta prioritario. Lo bueno es que hay mucha gente que está volviendo a revisar sus armarios y se ha dado cuenta de todo lo que habían olvidado dentro en el fragor consumista de los últimos años”.
Pródiga y prolija en cifras, detalles y nombres (solo el listado de fuentes ocupa 26 páginas del libro), Thomas se muestra implacable en sus conclusiones. Para saber, contarlo y exponernos —a la industria, pero también a los consumidores—, Thomas ha visitado fábricas de confección y proveedores del explotado sureste asiático, de Bangladés a Camboya; ha buscado nuevas iniciativas de negocio locales, como Stony Creek Colors, Alabama Chanin o la Nashville Fashion Alliance, que iluminan un futuro real en términos sostenibles, y ha hablado con los genuinos agentes del cambio, ya sean empresarios, diseñadores del alcance de Stella McCartney o desarrolladores de tecnología (curiosamente o no, la mayoría mujeres). “No creo posible hacer solo unos retoques para transformar el nefasto modelo existente en uno bueno. Se necesita crear uno totalmente nuevo. Sí, puedes aplicar la economía circular a tu negocio, pero si tu estrategia está basada en el volumen —es decir, máxima producción—, la cantidad de recursos y energía a utilizar sigue siendo significativamente destructiva”, reflexiona. “El magno modelo de negocio de la moda en su totalidad es erróneo, injusto y avaricioso. De principio a fin. Del propietario de la marca al comprador. Desde la concepción del producto hasta el final de su vida”.
¿Hablamos de capitalismo/neoliberalismo? Por supuesto. Una de las lecturas más pertinentes de Fashionopolis es la que se desprende de su propio título y de la metáfora que hace la autora recurriendo a la película Metrópolis (1927), el clásico de la ciencia-ficción distópica y expresionista de Fritz Lang: la industria de la moda como sistema malvado en el que los pobres trabajan explotados para el beneficio de unos pocos ricos. Que la sostenibilidad también implica lucha de clases es algo que quizá no habíamos visto venir. “Sucede desde hace 250 años. Dickens y Engels ya escribieron sobre ello. Ahora es igual, solo que lo ignoramos porque no pasa ante nuestros ojos, sino en lugares remotos y exóticos, pero contribuimos a que siga ocurriendo al comprar toda esa ropa tirada de precio”, confirma Thomas. “Hemos perdido la conexión. Si no lo sabemos, no nos concierne. No cuestionamos por qué compramos tan barato, hasta que vemos en las noticias tragedias como la del Rana Plaza de Bangladés [1.127 muertos en el desplome del edificio, ocupado por empresas de confección, en 2013]. Llevamos tres décadas de globalización y capitalismo desenfrenados que nos han conducido a una desigualdad histórica en el reparto de la riqueza. Ha llegado el momento de corregirlo”, añade, poniendo el foco en la ética laboral como parte inseparable de la revolución sostenible.
La covid-19 ha vuelto a destapar las miserias de los trabajadores (trabajadoras en realidad, pues el 90% de los operarios son mujeres) que la industria textil emplea a precio de saldo en países subdesarrollados o en vías de desarrollo, y que durante esta pandemia han pasado de confeccionar ropa a producir mascarillas y equipos de protección sanitarios a mayor gloria de las grandes corporaciones. “Antes los Gobiernos eran los colonizadores. Hoy son las empresas”, sentencia Thomas. El problema es cómo dar respuesta a esos trabajadores de la confección que piden que no dejemos de comprar ropa para poder mantener así sus puestos de trabajo mientras las privilegiadas voces del activismo nos incitan a lo contrario. “No, no deberíamos comprar más ropa. Son los dueños de las fábricas quienes deben pagar a sus empleados un salario digno. Las marcas deberían renunciar a tan astronómicos como grotescos beneficios y tratar a sus empleados y al planeta con propiedad”, dice la periodista, para la que resulta inadmisible cargar las tintas de las consecuencias éticas y medioambientales del actual consumo desaforado sobre quienes sufren exclusión económica o bien se creyeron la perversa promesa de que “la moda es para todos”.
Queda, para el caso, una última cuestión. Ante esta situación, tan compleja, ¿cuál es la responsabilidad de los Gobiernos?, ¿tendrían que financiar a las empresas del sector para ayudarles en el cambio de sus catastróficos sistemas de producción? “No”, responde categórica Thomas. “Pero sí deberían establecer una férrea legislación para regular ese cambio”, tercia a continuación.
“Se necesitan leyes serias para controlar la industria textil. Ya hemos comprobado cómo en estos últimos 30 años la falta de regulación genera horrores para el planeta y sus habitantes. Y solo para que se beneficien unos pocos. Cinco de los 55 tipos más ricos del mundo son dueños de corporaciones de moda. Ahí lo dejo”.
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